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AROUND THE WORLD IN 11 YEARS
Brunei 2000
11 August At 10:40 PM. the plane landed in Brunei airport. Dhan Singh and Rup Bahadur were waiting for me outside. Major Chandra Bahadur Pun, whom I contacted from Manila, had sent them to receive me. We took off in a jeep to Gorkha Reserve Unit. It was raining hard and the tire got a puncture on the way. It was impossible to change tires in the pouring rain. The driver went off with my bicycle to call for another jeep. We talked and waited. It was already 1:15, when we arrived at the guest room of GRU.
12 August Major Chandra Bahadur Pun arrived at 7:30. I was still sleeping. He arranged a tour for me in Badara Seri in a car. I went to see the city and learned about the roads, so that it would be easier for me to travel on my cycle later.
13 August There are around 1500 army personnel in GRU. Inside the compound, I had to live by the army rules. You need permission to go out and come in. The fact that I am living within the army camp cannot be flashed so I couldn't even contact any newspapers. I came out of the camp at 4:00, after taking permission from the major, of course. Bandara Seri, the capital of Brunei is not a big city. Brunei is a small Muslim country with a population of around 3 lakhs. They speak Malay and the women cover their head with veils. The roads are clean; majority of the workers are from India and Bangladesh. The business economy is in the hands of the Chinese population. It takes around 30 minutes to look around the shops and all. From there I went to see the Royal Palace. There I met a French cyclist, also a traveller. He had travelled to Africa for 3 years, and told me how unsafe it was, theft and robbery was common. My mind has already become preoccupied with the thought of travelling in Africa.
14 August Following the direction of GRU, I went to the District Office with Laxmi Prasad Gurung at 9 in the morning. He said, .this place is worse than Nepal, people are lazy and work get done at a snail's space.. The officer seemed too busy however, and we made an appointment for tomorrow. After a meal at 12, I returned to my room and tried to rest. But a crowd of Nepalese gathered who wanted to know about me. I am getting tired of answering the same questions again and again. It seems like such a headache sometimes. The radio interview was scheduled at 3 p.m. After that I returned to the district office to give the letter from GRU. The GRU Officer mess had organized a special party in the evening. It was on reaching Brunei that I got to taste Nepali food for the first time.
16 August The Brunei Bulletin had published my interview with the title .From Nepal with Peace. People who have read that now waved at me, especially the drivers, most of whom were women. I even had tea with two curious people. The city is 6 km. from GRU. At the embassy, people made a face when they saw my passport. They were saying I needed a Malaysian sponsor. I showed them the paper cutting of my interview. They were impressed and even wanted to take snaps with me. For free? No, they were willing to pay $ 10 each! I also got the visa. At 12:30, I had lunch with Major Bhuwan Singh Limbu. He is the father of Rita Limbu, my favorite RJ (Hits FM), back home. At 4 p.m., I went to look around the city again. I am a celebrity for those who know me. I went for tea in a tea shop run by a Madrasi, an Indian. He gave me a tie-pin. I met a lot of Nepalese on my way back, who stopped and talked to me. It took a while. There was a party in GRU at 7, and it was already 7. I met mothers and sisters who cried for me. I got emotional too. Back in my room, major Bhuwan Singh was already waiting for me. As luck would have it, I had left the keys inside my locked room! There was no way I could go to the party in the clothes I was wearing. After a frantic hunt, I finally managed to borrow a pant and a shirt. It was already 7:30. Finally, we made it to the party. The officers and their families were all waiting for us. Oh, we got a puncture,. we lied.
18 August The Gorkha Major Chandra Bahadur Pun came to my room to bid farewell. Many Nepalese gathered, with garlands, near the gate to see me off. Eyes glistened with tears. Nar Bahadur dai and Khar Bahadur dai accompanied me up to 15 km in the army van. Then I was on my way, all alone. In the short span of time in GRU, I got so much love from the Nepalese settled there. But I have to move on. For a while I rested in Jerudong park, a beautiful park. A big diamond is placed in front of the park. There weren.t many people in sight. It was difficult to see houses or shops on the way. In Tutong, the road narrowed, but it was under construction. There is no cultivated land; big open lands lie fallow, full of weeds. Brunei is living on oil wealth as it extracts maximum petroleum. After I reached Serea, I headed straight to the Gorkha camp. Bikash and Sherjung introduced me to the Acting Gorkha Major.
August 22 Teaching the Gurkhas in Brunei about the geography of Nepal is a tough task. "Where do you live", everybody asks. "Dolkha", I reply. The inevitable second question, "Where is Dolkha?" I feel a wee bit sad that these Nepalese know all about East Timor, Bosnia and Kosovo but are ignorant about their own home country. May be a war is necessary for them to know my village too. At last, I was alone around 4:00 and went to Kola Beliat, the boarder of Malaysia at 15 km from Seria. I bought a tyre for the bicycle and a pair of gloves. I don't know why I always keep losing my gloves… In the evening , there was a ceremony organized by the Gorkha Major Dharam Bahadut Gurung and other officers in my honor. The army officers talked about their life and I shared my memories. The dinner had fish and drymeat along with other delicacies. I began missing my village. Is maize ready for harvest now? Maybe they are cooking 'makaiko dhindo'…..
August 23 Milan Tamu woke me at six in the morning. Today I was moving to Malaysia from Brunei. I went with Milan Tamu for the interview which was followed by visits to a hospital and a school. The little children smiled kindly and little hands waved goodbye lovingly. I had many things to do, like posting letter, buying batteries fo camera. Thank god Jai was there in the right time with his car. All tasks over, I went to his home to show my face to his wife. The BFBS radio was still broadcasting news about my farewell to Brunei. After listening to the radio, there were many people who were curious about me. At 11:00, The British commanding Officers bided me farewell with garlands and military bands. Dipak dai dropped me at 5 km from there. Ramdhani had sent $75 for me again. Ramdhani is a renowned businessman in the army. I stopped for a meal at Istana Kota Mengellela, an old palace. The Sultan also stayed there in his tour to the sea and the Gurkhas provided the security there also. Together with Bhoop singh Thakuri, several Nepalese brothers came to see me off at Kola Belait. I took a steam boat from there and walke 12km to reach Sengai Tutoh Boarder. The path was tough, all marshy lands, jungle with no villages at all. There were monkeys playing in the trees and some people were fishing in murky water. There were dead snakes all over the road, crushed by the cars. 10 km. Road ahead for Kuala Baram was no better. In Kuala Baram, a man came to ask for an autograph in his Tshirt. I obliged and he paid me $10. 10m dollars for an autograph was not bad at all, I was happy. He knew about me from TV and newspapers. I took a ship again to cross the Baram river. I talked with a mAlaysian trekker in the ship. I was still 2km away from Miri. A person named Chong Shin fait, invited me to his shop and gave me 2 bottles of water, 2 bottles of fruit juice and a packet of biscuit. He provided me with an escort too, his fat little son, who was supposed to introduce me to other people and tag the bicycle along to reduce the weight. It was already dark when I reached Miri. It was hard to find a place to stay. Finally I planned to stay in Tropical Inn. I went to a restaurant to have meal. Sad, I had forgotten to exchange the Brunei dollars for Malaysian. All the money exchange counters were closed. Finally, the restaurant owner accepted 100 Brunei dollars. I I headed for the hotel.
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