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China 2000
February 3
I walked onwards onto the Chinese soil. Some 30 km ahead in Mang Chunang, I bought an orange and an egg. I changed the time in my watch. At noon I reached Mengla, a beautiful, small market place. There, I had lunch. Most part of the journey after that was jungle. There were very few villages on the way, so fewer greetings were exchanged. Through out the day, there were birds singing in the jungle. Not being unfamiliar to mountains and jungles, I didn't find the journey boring. In a small village, a man stopped me and took me to his home. They were cutting a pig there, everyone gathered around me. An elderly woman commanded them to go back to work. I drank a mug of tea and walked off from there. There was day light till 7:30. Because I was travelling through the jungle, I didn't notice when the sun went down. I came across a village after 130 km., got a room in a hotel.
February 4
I don't know the name of the place I stayed last night, didn't find anything written in English. I asked around, but no one understood. There was 'Nature Reserve' written in one place in the jungle. I did not meet anyone. It was still dark at 7:30 in the morning. No one in the hotel had woken up. Ahead, I came across another small market place. Few vendors were walking on the street, shivering in the cold. I reached Manlun at 9:45 and had breakfast there. After that, the jungle started again. At 2, tired and hungry, I reached a stone mine. While cycling through the jungle, I drank water dripping from the trees. I remembered my childhood days back at home. We used to sit down and eat 'Dhido' with salt and chili, which used to be so tasty. Where would I find 'dhido' here? I went into a small hut. There were workers - some playing a game (a kind of card game) and some in line for food. I said 'Fang' and signed that I wanted food. A worker gave me a pair of sticks and a bowl, and said to stand in the row. I ate enough rice and noodles sitting among the workers. Some workers were smoking Mayu Yan (tobacco). I left there and reached Mi Jhou at 3:30. The jungle ride ended there. Small villages were seen in places. My bicycle tyres had four punctures during the day. So, it was already 7:30 when I reached Mum Yang. There, till 8 I could not find a place to stay for the night. Among the non-English speaking crowd, it was very difficult to communicate. The room I found at last cost me 50 Yuan; more than I could afford really, 20 Yuan for food.
It was Chinese New Year's eve, firecrackers going out all through the night. A bunch of young people came in saying 'happy new year', stayed for a while joking, laughing and making noise. They left after twelve. I watched television for a while before falling asleep.
February 5
The firecrackers were going on till the early hours in the morning. Pieces of used crackers were scattered all over the street. I remembered I was very hungry yesterday, so I ate noodles in a small hotel I came across in the middle of the jungle. I observed an interesting factor in Chinese eating behavior. Different people eat from the same plate; they even eat somebody else's leftovers. You eat how much ever you can, rest you keep for other people to eat. The hotel owner kept the remaining from my plate in the fridge. Some lucky person will eat the remaining food a cycle tourist.
As I thought, there were very few houses along side the jungle road. The road is sketched on the mountain. Wherever there were settlements, the surrounding woods have been cleared mostly for tea plantation. Tea plantation and the settlements look very beautiful together. I like tea plantations. May be because of the New Year, people are often seen eating pork, drinking beer and playing cards. People hesitate even to smile. 'Nihau', I say and most of them do not return the greeting; some just teasingly answer. Some just smile. At some places, girls say 'hello'. After the climb through the jungle road ended, I cycled down hill and reached Dae Dong.
The market looked almost empty, the hotels looked as if there were no food left, after the New Year feasting. I went inside a hotel to have lunch. The owner lady showed me meat, then cauliflower, green vegetables and cabbage. I thought she would make one item with all of those, so nodded my head to affirm. But when it was ready and served, they were all different items. I didn't say anything and ate them all, as I had said yes. What could I have said anyway? As if she would understand. I had an expensive meal - 50 yuan.
After that, I mended my punctured tyre and started downhill at 4. At 5: 30 and almost 20 km, I reached Denloghe, after which the road was plane. It was a small valley, people planting rice in some places. In Fulbang, some people called and gave sugar cane to chew. In a police check post 12 km from there, they stopped me and asked for my passport. People passing by gathered around me, even people in their vehicle stopped to watch. Those who could speak English started asking questions. At 7:15, I asked the police for permission to sleep there. They said I could not. I showed them the time, tried to tell them that I was tired. They would not listen. I went some 32 km ahead in pitch dark and came to a small valley. By count, I asked in 12 houses for a place to sleep. It was already 8:30, no one offered. At the end, an old man provided me shelter. Small old house, two rooms, we sat in one of them and talked for a long time - in our own different languages. The man told me his story showing the white wall that has been tattered, color faded and almost gone in spots. Perhaps he was trying to tell me that he had a son like myself, that he had a small family long time back, and that now there's no one and he's all alone with his old age. And while telling me his story, he was crying too.
February 6
They don't understand English. They don't even understand the world China. They understand Chinko. They say 'Niunpa' for Nepal.
February 7
I came across Yian Jiang, a small valley at the bank of a river. It's a well-maintained and clean city, but didn't find English letters used anywhere, except OK written in some places. Found out that those were the hotels. One-storey long houses, like schools, along side the road, written OK. I settled in one of those OKs. I paid 10 for lodging and 10 for food; now I'm left with 10 Chinese currencies, don't know how far is it to reach Kunming yet.
February 8
Yian Jiang looks very beautiful from almost 7 km high up in the hill. Very few people were willing to talk. I had food in Yian Jiang, paid 6 Yuan, and bought a dozen bananas for 2 Yuan. I had water from the hotel, which would be enough for some time. Then I was left with 2 Yuan. I could sleep on the footpath, but what about food? I reached Yuxi at 10 and went around asking in many guesthouses, but no one was willing to lodge me for dollars. No one gave me shelter even when I told them that I would leave my bicycle there tomorrow while go to the bank and change the money. I called police in 110. They came but could not convince the hotels to accept dollars to keep me for the night. The police told me to wait and went away. Then, a young couple came out of the hotel and asked me "Can we help you?" I told them my problem, after which they paid up 150 Yuan in the hotel for me - equivalent of Nepali Rs. 1300. Again after 10 minutes, the couple sent some apples, a beer and a plate of noodles to my room. God bless the couple, if not for them I would be in the footpath tonight shivering in this cold weather.
February 9
I left Yuxi at 11 today. I had trouble with police on the way, locked me up for 1 hour because I was cycling in the Expressway, which is not for cycles. At 1, went in an eatery where the owner gave me a local alcohol to drink. He also provided the food for free. At 7:15, I reached Kunming and with the help of a policeman, called up Xieng Di. After 15 minutes, he took me to his friend's hotel and kept me in a room. "Fung (food)?" he asked. I shook my head, meaning I had not have my food yet. The food did not come and I realised he understood that I did not want food. I had a packet of instant noodles, but didn't have anything to put it on. There was an ashtray on the table. I washed it, put water and noodles on it and ate it. 12 at night Xieng Di came again. He apologised and asked me to leave the hotel. Apparently, they are not allowed to give shelter to foreigners without the permission from the state government, they will be liable to a penalty of 1000 Yuan for that. It is surprising however, that he was not aware of the fact till then. AT 12:30, I packed my bags and left the hotel. I went to a police booth and, by the grace of god, met a policeman who understood English. He took me to a hotel and even paid for the room.
It's past 1:15 am. Shops are mostly closed, but young couple can be seen strolling on the street unaffected by the cold weather. The Khateys are collecting plastics. Mad people, as if suffering from torture, can also be seen. The beggars are there too. I have heard there's equality in communism. Communism was rooted in China 51 years back, but where is equality?
February 11
15 km away from Kunming city, I met two Chinese cyclists. They were headed towards Wa Qiu, to Wang Ping's girlfriend's house. I was glad that I would be spending my day with the fellow cyclists. They were also glad to meet me. Downhill - they would speed up without holding the brakes, uphill - they would tire fast and climb slowly, in the planes - we cycled together. On the road, the bullock carts and horse carriages hampered our speed. We were in a kind of race. We entered the village at around 9:30. It was a quiet night. I was scared that we might have an accident. One and half hours later we reached a small valley - old settlement, smell of cow dung and coal. Further ahead was Wa Qiu market place. At 11 pm, we reached the gate of a small building among the crowd of old houses. Wang Ping's girlfriend opened the door for us. Introduction and formalities done, the food was ready with a bottle of grape wine.
I covered the longest distance of my journey today - 189 km in 15 hours.
February 12
I continued on my journey after breakfast at 8 in the morning. Dai Bo, Wang Ping and his girlfriend accompanied me for 10 km. 22 km ahead, I reached Luxi. There a policeman bought me a coke and a packet of biscuits. Another 42 km ahead was a small city Me Lei. I met a few English speaking college students on the way. They offered me lunch.
At 8 pm when I reached Kai Yuan, it was getting colder. I went to a bus station and asked for permission to lay down somewhere there. They refused, said the police might arrest me if I sleep there. I put my cycle on stand and sat at the side of the road, looking at the fashionable people of the city. I think the city resembles Bangkok. Young people with beer bottles in their hands, the New Year celebrations are still on I guess, I could hear the firecrackers too time and on. The rickshaw drives approached from time to time to ask if I wanted to go anywhere - also the drivers of motor cycles converted into auto rickshaws. Of course they did not know that I didn't even have money to sleep in a hotel tonight. I was constantly being alerted by the noise of beer bottles being crashed on the street, and I was worried. There I was, and my bicycle, just two of us. What could we do if something were to happen?
At 10:30, two young lads with small sacks on their shoulders came and sat in a corner across me. They looked like the lads from the village out here in the city in search for better opportunities. They sat down on the floor there and we kept watching each other. After a while one of them took out two cigarettes, gave one to the other one and lit them. I thought of a way to get close to them. I went to them and asked for a cigarette. He gave me one and spoke in his language. He smiled and said, "No Chinko". I sat down with them and smoked, even if I do not smoke otherwise - just to development acquaintance with them. There was no other way. I told them my name and my country's name. They smiled. I took out the map from my bag and showed them. They understood. I also gave them two oranges I had. Three of us had another round of cigarettes. It was already 11:15, we got ready to sleep. They didn't have a mattress or a blanket. So I laid down my mattress and pulled them closer. We sat on the mattress, our backs leaning on the wall, upper half of our bodies covered with my sleeping bag. We had different languages and different countries, but we had a same problem. Sharing humanity, today I sat (slept) together with the citizen of this communist country. The police might come any time at night and take us all in. But I'm not frightened now. I am not alone now.
February 13
If the police came last night for patrolling, my two companions and I did not realize it. The ticket counters had opened as early as 5 o'clock, vehicles had started blowing their horns. I didn't notice my companions leave with their sacks. I too gathered my belongings and set off on my way at around 6:45.
In China, the cities are getting along the path of progress. The hills are being brought down to level with the ground. Buildings are being erected at the foothills of the mountains. Hardworking Chinese people are involved in construction work everywhere. Relatively, the villages look like would take a long time to embrace development. I see a huge difference between the towns and villages. But I don't know how different are they internally. There should have no different according to communist theory.
At one place on my way, I saw an old lady struggling to get a load of grass on her back. I stopped my bicycle and while was trying to take a photograph, a gentleman stopped me. But he did not try to assist the old lady. I did not too, thinking the gentleman would stop me again.
February 14
I met a man who could speak a little English, in Yan Shan. He asked me, "Musurim?" (Muslim). I understood his implication and said yes. He treated with food and bought me a bottle of water.
The Chinese women's cheeks look as deliciously juicy as our apples from Jomsom. But I have not experienced if it's truly so. My own cheeks and lips are torn and dry with wind. On top of that with long grown beard, I look no less than __ . I just don't feel like shaving.
February 15
There were in the sky from the morning. It looked like it would rain. It did drizzle, at around 2 in the afternoon. When we were small, we used say you would get ____ if you get wet in that kind of rain. All wet in the rain, I reached Funing at 7 in the evening. A beautiful and well planned city, I went to a Hotel to lodge. The owner called the police, who took me to a big hotel - 'Alines & Overseas China Permitted to Lodge' written there. It would cost me 150 Yuan. I did not have that much money. The police took me to his office and make me fill up a form. He examined my document, took special interest in the passport. Make me leave my bags there and took me to have dinner. He again took me to office to his boss. The officer was tough, interrogated me as if I were a criminal. He asked me several questions in his language, I replied in my own. I tried to explain I had money only for food. He tried to tell me with signs that I would be turned back to Kunming the tomorrow. I understood. Whether they send me back or send me to Hong Kong, I did not have money to lodge in a hotel. Finally they settled me in a simple hotel, paid 4 Yuan to sleep there, and may be the police took care of the balance.
February 16
I set off before the police came. It has been drizzling from the morning. I could not enjoy the nature; everything was covered with clouds. A mad man chased and scared the hell out of me on the up hill. I meet many a mad men on my way. I saw a dead man in the pitch in the jungle. May be he was a mad man too. I reached Pho Hai at 5:30. Plane but damaged road from there, along side a river - no jungle, no village. It got dark at 7:30. 24 km ahead, I spotted a village at the other side of the river. There was a boat at the other side of the riverbank. I whistled. I heard something. They shouted, I shouted back. I had hoped someone would come to get me, but no one did. After a bit of duet, I went ahead and saw a hut along side the road. I called out but no one answered. It was kind of a storehouse for sugarcane. I went in; it was quiet and empty. I was in a very vulnerable situation there. But I had no choice. I took out a candle, lit it and stuck it to a tree hoping someone would see and come to help. I had some biscuits left with me; had it with some water. Also took some sugarcane and chewed it. After the full course of meal, I laid down for the night.
February 17
The night passed safely. The noise from the truck on the road disrupted my sleep from time to time. Somewhere from the dark, I could hear the dogs crying. I was scared. Back in our village, I used to get really scared whenever the foxes cried at night around our houses. Even though I say I'm not scared of the dead, the fright comes itself in the quiet, lonely, dark nights. The river made smooth noise. The wind shook the trees, and falling leaves made sounds of someone approaching. I felt strong love for my life.
22 April
I headed towards Great Wall at 7. Everyone knows that Great Wall is in China. But many Chinese don't know when you say Great Wall. So, it becomes a problem many times. It is there in their one Yen note, so I show that and ask people in the street. That too they don't understand easily. Pass the city area, you can see the farming lands as you approach the country side. I passed through Tucheng, Xueyuan, Champing and Nankou. At Dong Younzi, farmers were working in their fields. I rested there for a while. From there, the road took a uphill climb. After Ju Yong Psss, the figure of the Great Wall became visible. On the necked mountain the wall lies like a snake. It's 14 km from there to Babaling, the climb becomes steeper. Soaked with sweat, I reached the Babaling base of the wall at 4. It's 69 km from Beijing to Bababling. The entrance to the wall was already closed for the day. Most people had left, but a few could be seen returning. One of the seven wonders of the world, man made structure that can be seen from the moon - the Great Wall. At the base of the mountain is a small market place - the Wall climbs up towards East and West from there. My curiosity and the desire to set foot on the Wall could not be fulfilled today. In the market place, I found a Tourist Guest House, and lodged myself for the night in one of the rooms.
23 April
The entrance to the Great Wall opened at 8 in the morning. I bought a ticket of 30 Yuan and became the first one to enter today. You have to climb about 500 meters in an electric motor - plastic vehicles, like children's toys. Once on the Wall, I headed towards the North-West portion. When you reach top, looking down was too scary. The street vendors had already set up their shop, time and again they would approach me to sell their goods. I would climb up on my own ignoring them, and they would let me be. I didn't have anything to buy. The wall was made up of stones 1 foot in breadth and 2 to 3 feet in length, black stones on top of the wall. On top of the wall is another wall made up of breaks 4 times the size of the ordinary ones. The wind started blowing 1 km above the entrance gate. There was a 'no visitors' board ahead. The board couldn't stop me and I went ahead and climbed further. I walked through the damaged and ruined portion of the wall for about 2 hours.
I found that the wall is really amazing. It is no small feet to make a wall thousands of km long hundreds of years back on top of these barren mountains. There are no villages in sight. I wonder where did they get labors to construct such an enormous wall in those days. Apparently people also call it a big grave. I don't know far is that true. But looking at the wall, you can imagine that a lot lives would have been lost while building the wall. The wind blew in faster pace. The Great Wall has aged though the wind and cold. I wanted to go further, but compelled myself to return as it was getting late. When I reached back to the 'no visitors' board, the crowd of tourists there had increased.
28 April
Today's my last day in Beijing. There are lots of place I could visit. But I place I should see by all means - White Pagoda is still left to be seen. Nepali artist Arniko constructed it here in King Angshuvarma's period. It is said that he later settled here in China. At 11, I headed toward the White Pagoda, taking along Nishant as my guide. It took us two hours to reach the Pagoda, which lies at the North West from the Tianamen Square. We paid 10 Yuan for the ticket. An island at the centre of the pond, the Pagoda on the island looks really beautiful, does look like a Nepali Pagoda. Around the pond is a fence of stone pillars, swans on the pond, jungle encircling the island, the top of the Pagoda in the middle of the jungle seen from a distance is a real beautiful sight. I feel really proud to see the development of Nepali art here. I am happy today to have seen the living history of the friendship of Nepal and China. But Arniko, such a popular figure came here to live - I feel anger towards him for that. He forgot his country. Such a reputed artist, and we don't see or hear about his work in our own country. I wonder why.
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HongKong 2000
February 27
In Shenzhen, I requested them to written down the address of Municipal Office, but they refused saying today was a holiday. I headed towards Hong Kong from there. I did not have a visa. After two hours in the Hong Kong immigration and after paying 135 HK dollars visa fee, I got the visa - only for a week. Ahead from there, I met three Chinese cyclists in Fanling. I had my meal with them there. Mrs. Lai provided me with an inner tube and some stickers. We became four from there until we reached Tai Po, where two went the other way. Hon Sui came with me. He guided me through dangerous turns and short cuts. It would have taken me a day more to cover that distance if Hon was not with me.
We entered Kowloon at 5:30. Tall buildings, reach to the top of the mountains from the sea level, attract me. Truly, the British made Hong Kong with hard work. I wanted to condemn the courageous and brave Balbhadra once. My country is only living in nature. Only if it had been colonized once and been developed.
In a subway in Kowloon, I fell and broke the handle of my bicycle. I was in trouble. We tried to fix it but could not. We had to take a ship to Victoria Harbour from Kowloon. In Victoria, Hon called his friend Alan Ho, who is also a cyclist. My cycle could not be fixed. I tried to contact Anita through telephone many times, but only got her friend on the line. She had promised to bear all my expenses in Hong Kong. At 9, we loaded the cycles in a taxi and drove to the hospital. Hon paid 200 HK dollars for the ride. We did not meet Anita in the hospital too.
At mid night, we tried searching for hotels. Walking our bicycles in the rain, tired with the daylong hard work, we went from hotel to hotel - Hon in front of me, and I following him.
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Japan 2000
Tokyo, April 30
I reached the embassy before it opened. Mr. Ambassador came at 9. He has been the Vice Chancellor of Tribhuvan University, took keen interest in my journey, but could not help me personally. He told his secretary to arrange for News coverage and contact sponsors.
The streets are clean and cute, on the sides are small gardens. But I'm frustrated when I have to ride my bicycle on the sidewalk, you can't ride in your own speed. Reached Fujitsawa and phoned Nahoko at 7. I couldn't get her because apparently she reaches home from work at 11 at night only. It started drizzling. I went under the crossing bridges of trains and four wheelers, and set up my tent there. Today's my first night in a tent. Today onwards, I won't have to stay in a hotel. I have bought a home for myself.
I called Nohoko once again at 10:30. This time I did meet her on phone but was unable to tell her where I was. After talking with her and Haruko, a friend of hers, for 15 minutes, a man passed by. I called him saying 'sumimasen' but he ignored. I told her that I would call her back when another soul passes by, and hung up. There was no one in sight. Finally I got hold of a man in cycle and took him to the phone. Nahako and Haruko came in 10 minutes. Nahoko said that her father had told her to bring me home, and took out the tent and packed it. We went to a restaurant before going to her home.
May 2
In Japan, you rarely see people on the street except in the market area. You don't even know if there people living inside those houses. Some places, there is no one to ask if you lose your way. Neither do you see policemen. Japanese are not interested in other people's problems; neither do they like other people taking interest in theirs. The development they've done through time is impressive - adding artificiality over the natural beauty, they've made their country even more attractive.
May 3
They made me the chief guest of the prize distribution and inauguration ceremonies of various competitions organized by Himalayan Club, Japan. It's a three day holiday here in Japan in the "Golden Week". The Nepalese there use these events as an opportunity to unite with their fellow countrymen. The event this year has been organized in the well facilitated sports complex in Toyhashi by the Himalayan Club. Around 3 to 4 hundred Nepalese came for the events. I met Nepalese from different walks of life. Nepali sisters were selling Nepali cuisines to players and visitors, food that reminds you of home. As a chief guest, had to be confined to a chair for the whole day - people pass by, greet me with a Namaste, my first time in life experience of being a chief guest.
May 4
Today was the closing and prize distribution ceremony. I watched basketball and volleyball the whole day - pretty good players in both the sports. There was even a Nepali national player in volleyball. At 5, after the prize distribution ceremony, with the organizers and other Nepalese friends, we went to a Japanese restaurant to have food. We were 13 of us, you could have anything and as much as you want in fixed time and money there. You could have as much beer as you want from your glass. It was fun, like some kind of competition, to watch your watch and eat, and drink, as fast as you can.
6 May
The sky was occupied by the clouds today too. I folded by tent-home and put it in a small bag. You save the hotel expense when you sleep in your own tent, but there's a major problem of toileting.
At 12, I reached Numazu, satisfied my hunger with a burger from McDonald. Mt. Fuji was not clearly visible toady too, the tallest pick in the Japan is of 3776 m. - made out of a volcano eruption.
May 7
Today is Sunday, Nahoko's off day. We had food and went to Inter Café. I checked my mail. At 2 we went to the beach, being weekend, there were lots of people. Nahoko and I played in the sand. At 5, we went to watch American Beauty. After that, Nahoko phoned Kimiko. She was surprised to know that I am in Japan. When I knew them before, Nahoko and Kimiko were best of friends, now it had been 2 years that they have not met each other. The reason apparently was Bhimsen. I don't have any idea what happened among them. May be they both were in love with Bhimsen. We took a train and went to Yokohama to meet Kimiko. She was very happy to see us, we hugged. We went to a Japanese restaurant. I don't know why but Kimiko found something suspicious with me, and asked to see my passport. Nahoko has changed a bit physically from when I saw her last in Nepal, but Kimko has not changed. Cute, beautiful face, always looked like a Nepali Tamangni to me. After dinner we had a picture taken from an automatic camera. With promises to meet again, we parted. Nahoko and I took a train back. I am glad that Nahoko and Kimiko revived their friendship again today because of me.
May 8
Nahoko woke me up at 5:30. She is a very energetic lady, no less than a man. She had to take a train at 6:30, to go to work - works from 7 to 10 at night. I don't prefer that busy life. She says when she was a student, she had time and no money. Now she is a teacher, she has money but no time to spend it.
May 10
I read some Nepali newspapers, wrote some letters. It's a small room, where three of them stay. Bastola is 45 years old. The other two young lads are Shisam and Michael. Michael is just like Michael, roams around being a Nepali Michael in Japanese land.
On the right as you enter, is the toilet; on the left is kitchen. It is very difficult for a common Japanese to acquire a whole house. People usually spend their lives in an apartment. One guy told me, "Four generations of my people lived in apartments. My father, grandfather, his father - all lived and died in the apartment. We have four cars, but no house of our own." Another amazing factor is the parking space for the car is more expensive that the car itself. Therefore owning a car itself is not a small thing.
May 21
I joined an Indian restaurant today. I have to stall my journey for a few days because of economic difficulties. The work is dish-washing, 900 yen an hour. I think if I work hard for a month and save some money, I could walk ahead. In an expensive place like Japan, it is very difficult to live without working. Even though one cannot work in Tourist visa, but I'm a victim of circumstance. I had applied for sponsorship in several companies, but none of them replied. Income is good for everyone who works. There is no work discrimination. An industrialist's son would be working as a driver in his father's company. Japanese value time very much, and it is difficult to meet them. There was a guy I made friends with back in Nepal when he visited; it's been a month and a half and he has not been able to make time for me. They chase time for money, they're better off economically, but not in compassion/ friendliness/
July 20
I woke up at 4 in the morning. Today's my last day in Japan after a long stay, so could not wait to leave. I put my stuff in Mr. Harai's car and we drove to the bus stop. He was saying he would drop me in his car if I was not taking my bicycle. I had found out yesterday that I could take my bicycle on the bus. He dropped me at the bus stop and left. The bus came, but the conductor says 'dame' (no) for bicycle. I tried to make him understand but he kept making cross with his fingers saying 'dame'. I took out the file, showed him the news about me printed in Japanese. He would not listen. I pleaded, almost cried. I could not afford to take a cab. I thought to call up Mr. Harai for help again, but lost his phone number. All other numbers I had of Nepalis were of their offices. Ultimately I found the home number of Shushilji. He called several other places and found out the number of Delta Studio, from where he got Takao's number, and from his Mr. Harai's. Mr. Harai got angry as soon as he heard my over phone, because I had declined his offer of car ride. "I'll come in 10 mins, stay there," he said to me in Nepali, as if I would run away somewhere. Those ten minutes seemed to be very long to me. But he did come in exactly 10 mins. As soon as he came he asked which bus is refusing to allow the cycle in. He was furious. I showed him the person. While the two of them were talking, the conductor's phone rang, he talked for a while and handed it to Hurai. Hurai talked in phone for a while and everything was settled. I have no idea who Hurai had talked to earlier. Thank you Hurai San. I bowed to the conductor, he said Sumimasen and bowed down even more.
I reached the airport looked around and found the ticket counter; again the same problem of packing the bicycle. I signed a paper saying I myself would be responsible for any damage to the cycle. I had not got the visa to Brunei. I began to worry about that. I told them I was planning to get visa from the immigration. But they would not let me fly until I took a ticket to somewhere from Philippines. It was almost time for take off, so I took an open ticket to Brunei. There was a lady attendant who was helping me out in all these process - from buying the tickets to paying airport tax, she was doing the running around for me - and she was getting calls after calls, the plane was waiting for me. I could not say goodbyes to anyone in Japan. I could not exchange money in the bank. There was a long line in the immigration. The alarm went off in the security check-up; I took out all my stuff, but it would not go off; took off my cap thinking it might be the pin on it, didn't work; took off my shoes, and it didn't ring. I was shocked. Has someone put something in my shoes, the pair was given to me by Fuji San. The officers at the immigration took a look at the shoes and let me go. I don't know what was there. We were in hurry, we were running, my bag was heavy but I was trying to keep up with her. We got on a bus, she was smiling looking at my face. I look at my reflection on the steel wall of the bus, passing through the rough times all morning, my face had changed - it had anger, sadness, pain - all at once; I was someone else. We got off the bus, went through the no. 51 gate, and ran towards the plane; the staff were waving at us to move faster. As I was about to climb up, I aksed her, "What's your name?" Controlling her breadth, she said, "Mari."
Brunei, 2000
11 August
At 10:40 PM. the plane landed in Brunei airport. Dhan Singh and Rup Bahadur
were waiting for me outside. Major Chandra Bahadur Pun, whom I
contacted from Manila, had sent them to receive me. We took off in a jeep to
Gorkha Reserve Unit. It was raining hard and the tire got a puncture on the
way. It was impossible to change tires in the pouring rain. The driver went off
with my bicycle to call for another jeep. We talked and waited. It was already
1:15, when we arrived at the guest room of GRU.
12 August
Major Chandra Bahadur Pun arrived at 7:30. I was still sleeping. He arranged a
tour for me in Badara Seri in a car. I went to see the city and learned about
the roads, so that it would be easier for me to travel on my cycle later.
13 August
There are around 1500 army personnel in GRU. Inside the compound, I had to
live by the army rules. You need permission to go out and come in. The
fact that I am living within the army camp cannot be flashed so I couldn.t
even contact any newspapers. I came out of the camp at 4:00, after
taking permission from the major, of course. Bandara Seri, the capital of
Brunei is not a big city. Brunei is a small Muslim country with a population
of around 3 lakhs. They speak Malay and the women cover their head with
veils. The roads are clean; majority of the workers are from India and Bangladesh.
The business economy is in the hands of the Chinese population. It takes around 30
minutes to look around the shops and all. From there I went to see the Royal Palace.
There I met a French cyclist, also a traveller. He had travelled to Africa for 3 years, and told
me how unsafe it was, theft and robbery was common. My mind has already
become preoccupied with the thought of travelling in Africa.
14 August
Following the direction of GRU, I went to the District Office with Laxmi Prasad
Gurung at 9 in the morning. He said, .this place is worse than Nepal, people
are lazy and work get done at a snail. space.. The officer seemed too busy
however, and we made an appointment for tomorrow.
After a meal at 12, I returned to my room and tried to rest. But a crowd of
Nepalese gathered who wanted to know about me. I am getting tired of
answering the same questions again and again. It seems like such a headache
sometimes. The radio interview was scheduled at 3
p.m. After that I returned to the district office to give the letter from GRU. The
GRU Officer mess had organized a special party in the evening. It was on
reaching Brunei that I got to taste Nepali food for the first time.
16 August
The Brunei Bulletin had published my interview with the title .From Nepal with
Peace.. People who have read that now waved at me, especially the drivers,
most of whom were women. I even had tea with two curious people.
The city is 6 km. from GRU. At the embassy, people made a face when
they saw my passport. They were saying I needed a Malaysian sponsor. I
showed them the paper cutting of my interview. They were impressed and
even wanted to take snaps with me. For free? No, they were willing to pay $ 10
each! I also got the visa. At 12:30, I had lunch with Major Bhuwan
Singh Limbu. He is the father of Rita Limbu, my favorite RJ (Hits FM), back
home. At 4 p.m., I went to look around the city again. I am a celebrity for those
who know me. I went for tea in a tea shop run by a Madrasi, an Indian. He
gave me a tie-pin. I met a lot of Nepalese on my way back, who stopped
and talked to me. It took a while. There was a party in GRU at 7, and it was
already 7. I met mothers and sisters who cried for me. I got emotional too.
Back in my room, major Bhuwan Singh was already waiting for me. As luck
would have it, I had left the keys inside my locked room! There was no way I
could go to the party in the clothes I was wearing. After a frantic hunt, I
finally managed to borrow a pant and a shirt. It was already 7:30. Finally, we
made it to the party. The officers and their families were all waiting for us.
.Oh, we got a puncture,. we lied.
18 August
The Gorkha Major Chandra Bahadur Pun came to my room to bid farewell. Many
Nepalese gathered, with garlands, near the gate to see me off. Eyes glistened
with tears. Nar Bahadur dai and Khar Bahadur dai accompanied me up to 15
km in the army van. Then I was on my way, all alone. In the short span of
time in GRU, I got so much love from the Nepalese settled there. But I have
to move on. For a while I rested in Jerudong park, a beautiful park. A
big diamond is placed in front of the park. There weren.t many people in
sight. It was difficult to see houses or shops on the way. In Tutong, the road
narrowed, but it was under construction. There is no cultivated
land; big open lands lie fallow, full of weeds. Brunei is living on oil wealth as
it extracts maximum petroleum. After I reached Serea, I headed straight to the
Gorkha camp. Bikash and Sherjung introduced me to the Acting Gorkha Major.
19 August
I slept till late today. Nar Bahadur Gurung arrived at 11:30 to talk about
the radio interview for BFBS. Since the interview was not possible today, we
headed to Kolabelait. A small town with shops run by Chinese and some
Indians. The town was full of Nepalese army personnel (and their families) just
posted from England. We chatted and took photographs. There is a palace in Seria
where the King of Brunei stays, when he comes to the city. There.s a Gorkha army security
there too, like in many important places in Brunei. We had a meal there and
returned. At 6 in the evening, I took a walk in Seria. Surprisingly, there were
very few people walking on the streets. In the roadside bars, many Indians and
Bengalis could be seen loitering around. ,I returned around eight. Binod Khadka
was waiting for me. I learned that he hosts BFBDS radio program. We had a
meal at his home. Yesterday I had eaten Dhindo and Gundruk, and it felt like a
farmer just returning from work. Today I got to eat alutama with rice. We talked
till midnight and then he dropped me in his car. When I was entering the compound, I
saw a girl coming out. There was a big storm outside. I was afraid to call out to
her. Maybe she is a kichkandi, a ghost! I went to the toilet, there were two girls
there, almost nude. I didn.t go directly and spied on them. They whispered
something and came out. I couldn.t tell whether they are humans or ghosts. I
was scared. Forget the toilet, I ran to my room.
I was alone, the storm grew more terrible. .How come there were
people in the restricted area, and that too girls?. Maybe they were the
kichkandi friends of the Battalion that were leaving tomorrow for England.
Maybe they had come to pay their last visit. I prayed that they wouldn.t come
to pay me a last visit. I gave a final glance towards the window. The storm
continued.
August 22
Teaching the Gurkhas in Brunei about the geography of Nepal is a tough task. "Where do you live", everybody asks. "Dolkha", I reply. The inevitable second question, "Where is Dolkha?" I feel a wee bit sad that these Nepalese know all about East Timor, Bosnia and Kosovo but are ignorant about their own home country. May be a war is necessary for them to know my village too.
At last, I was alone around 4:00 and went to Kola Beliat, the boarder of Malaysia at 15 km from Seria. I bought a tyre for the bicycle and a pair of gloves. I don't know why I always keep losing my gloves…
In the evening , there was a ceremony organized by the Gorkha Major Dharam Bahadut Gurung and other officers in my honor. The army officers talked about their life and I shared my memories. The dinner had fish and drymeat along with other delicacies. I began missing my village. Is maize ready for harvest now? Maybe they are cooking 'makaiko dhindo'…..
August 23
Milan Tamu woke me at six in the morning. Today I was moving to Malaysia from Brunei. I went with Milan Tamu for the interview which was followed by visits to a hospital and a school. The little children smiled kindly and little hands waved goodbye lovingly. I had many things to do, like posting letter, buying batteries fo camera. Thank god Jai was there in the right time with his car. All tasks over, I went to his home to show my face to his wife. The BFBS radio was still broadcasting news about my farewell to Brunei. After listening to the radio, there were many people who were curious about me. At 11:00, The British commanding Officers bided me farewell with garlands and military bands.
Dipak dai dropped me at 5 km from there. Ramdhani had sent $75 for me again. Ramdhani is a renowned businessman in the army. I stopped for a meal at Istana Kota Mengellela, an old palace. The Sultan also stayed there in his tour to the sea and the Gurkhas provided the security there also. Together with Bhoop singh Thakuri, several Nepalese brothers came to see me off at Kola Belait. I took a steam boat from there and walke 12km to reach Sengai Tutoh Boarder. The path was tough, all marshy lands, jungle with no villages at all. There were monkeys playing in the trees and some people were fishing in murky water. There were dead snakes all over the road, crushed by the cars.
10 km. Road ahead for Kuala Baram was no better. In Kuala Baram, a man came to ask for an autograph in his Tshirt. I obliged and he paid me $10. 10m dollars for an autograph was not bad at all, I was happy. He knew about me from TV and newspapers.
I took a ship again to cross the Baram river. I talked with a mAlaysian trekker in the ship. I was still 2km away from Miri. A person named Chong Shin fait, invited me to his shop and gave me 2 bottles of water, 2 bottles of fruit juice and a packet of biscuit. He provided me with an escort too, his fat little son, who was supposed to introduce me to other people and tag the bicycle along to reduce the weight. It was already dark when I reached Miri. It was hard to find a place to stay. Finally I planned to stay in Tropical Inn. I went to a restaurant to have meal. Sad, I had forgotten to exchange the Brunei dollars for Malaysian. All the money exchange counters were closed. Finally, the restaurant owner accepted 100 Brunei dollars. I I headed for the hotel.
September,2007, Turkey
Overstay in Istanbul
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When I decided to return to Nepal from Turkey, I called on the Kist Merchant Bank who very generously gave me a round trip ticket. Almost penniless I went to the airport, checked in my luggage and got some post cards and began to scribble. While I was writing away, a man approached me and introduced himself. His name was Suleiman and was living in Germany, but was originally from Turkey. Having missed his flight, he was bored and was just looking to pass some time. As for me, I had more than an hour to wait. So over a beer, we started chatting. When it was time for me to go through immigration he gave me his address in Germany and invited me to visit some day. I still had some local currency, but it was not quite enough to be changed into $100. So, I asked Suleiman for 12 Turkish liras in order to reach the $100. He gave me 12 Turkish lira and I changed money.
After that we went our separate ways and I headed to the Immigration office. Upon inspecting my passport, I was told that I had overstayed my visa in Turkey.
Honestly, I wasn’t aware that I had almost overstayed my visa by 5 days. I only had the permit for three weeks, which I had mistaken for a month. Oops! Too late! The immigration officer sent me to another office to pay the fine. The immigration officer charged me $120. But I had only $100 on me. “What do I do?” That was the biggest dilemma. I couldn’t do anything except ask the immigration officer to consider my position and maybe give me a discount. The queue was getting longer by the minute with more and more people coming in to settle their overstay fines. I begged the officer to reconsider my dues, but with his English bordering on the weaker side, most of my pleas landed on deaf ears. Enraged, the officer threw my bill out and asked me for all of the money. If I didn’t clear my dues, there was way I could board the flight. Desperately, I scanned for Suleiman, the only person I knew in this strange land.
My eyes were full of tears. He was nowhere in sight. Crestfallen, I went back to the immigration officer. Somebody saw me crying in front of the officer and asked what the matter was. Even the rude immigration officer had the heart to explain my problem to him. He didn’t say anything. He just opened his wallet and gave me $50 to settle the fine. I gave $150 to the police and got $30 in change. I wanted to give the rest of the change to that person but he was kind enough to let me keep it. I gave him my visiting card and ran to the immigration as the pager was blaring like mad: ‘Pushkar Shah,’ it announced, ‘this is the last call for you to board the plane.’ I ran to the gate. I was the last passenger. The plane was just about to take off, leaving me behind. Thankfully, I made it in time.
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