October 19
I woke up at 5:00 in the morning. Prama was also up; he knew I was leaving. It was drizzling outside. I took a bath after almost 10 days. After breakfast, I left for the airport with Rama and Prama. I gave a wrist-watch to Prama and said goodbye.

The plane left at 9:45. It flew above many scattered islands. I had good memories of Bali. In the plane, there were many westerners and a few Japanese. Climbing down from the plane, I saw a Nepalese face. It was a kind of relief. He was S.P. Lok B. Karki, who had come to collect me. In Deli, which was badly affected by war, all immigration works were being carried out in a single room by amateurs. Two Royal Nepal Army officers had also come here from the border of East and West Timor. I also met Dipak Koirala, who was from my own district back home. I met many Nepalese there. Surrounding the airport were army personnel from many countries.

Deli looked really terrible with the post-war effects gaping from every corner. The smell of smoke and explosives were still fresh. The scars of war were still visible in people's faces and their spirits.

I went to the Chief Protocol Office (UNTAET). I met Andrew there who told me a lot about East Timor. There was no permanent government as yet and actually the place was run by the UN staff. After fixing an appointment for the next morning I headed towards the CIVPOL office, where soldiers from many countries are working. I met Lena, who helped me meet with Nepalese soldiers. I met Inspector Niraj, who took me to Bilabard, after finishing his work. It was a small village full of tiny huts. It looked like a newly born village. There were many Nepalese soldiers there. At dinnertime, John showed me around places, broken to pieces, by the militia. He was thankful that they didn't burn the whole place down. Sadly I couldn't find out anything about Asti's family. I showed her photographs to many people but nobody knew anything about her.

October 21
I reached the main gate of UNTAET at 8:00 and was introduced to Sergio Vieire, the UN Secretary General representative. He was genuinely interested in my plans and experiences. After taking some photographs, I went towards Baucau. After 15km, I reached Hera. There I met a CIVPOL officer and we talked for an hour or so. I couldn't find any villages for 40 km from Metinaro to Manatuto. There are barren mountains, complex walking roads constructed on dangerous slopes. You find yourself directly swimming in the sea, lest you fall down. At 2, I reached the UNTAET office at Manatuto and informed Mrs. Jina about my arrival. She was from Ethiopia. I was instructed to report my arrival to UNTAET and CIVPOL offices. There are many small villages in Manatuto. The houses had been burnt and people were just in the process of reconstructing them. People were creating a new society, a new settlement. But perhaps the fragments would never rejoin. All homes might not be reconstructed. However after the agonizing war, people have started expressing some restored spirits and reversion to normal life. The schools have been re-opened, churches have begun to call Jesus again. The spirit of freedom is slowly taking off.

October 22
Baucau City looks as if it is made of drops of melted iron on a steep stony hill. Forget about the cropland, even the trees cannot grow here but refugees continue to return. The journey to Dili began at 7. You will find only UN vehicles on the streets, except for occasional local mini-vans and motorcycles. There is no one on the road that does not wave and call out 'hello mister'. The children even tried to hang on to my bicycle, some naughty ones even trying to open my bag. Those who could speak asked for pens, caps etc. On the road between Bacau and Dili, that stretches up to 122 km, there are no restaurants at all. There are some places to eat though, but no places where one can buy water or drink. At some places I paid the children for some coconuts. I even drank 'tadi', the coconut drink. To cool myself, I even dived in the sea, but there was no way I could drink the salty water. I felt as if I was travelling though a small desert.

I reached Hera Civdol, and asked Lt. Col. Sutkhaet for water. I met Mr. Andrew in UNTAET. In Bilabarde, when I reached John's house, his sister Phulje was at the door to welcome me. I had dinner at their house.

October 23
I couldn't get a ticket in UNTAET's plane. The Chief of Protocol called to apologise and that he would try to get a sponsored ticket from a private service. I was already dreaming of the flight from Dili to Darwin to Sydney and was really disappointed. But I had to keep faith till evening. Thankfully at 5:00 I heard that, Air North had agreed to sponsor me for the flight. I am grateful to Andrew. Since my flight is scheduled early tomorrow morning, I went to meet the Royal Nepal Army personnel working there and thankfully received the money they had collected for me. I also met the Nepali policemen and requested them for some financial assistance but they were reluctant and advised me to look for some permanent sponsors instead. They have built a 'Nepal House' here but ironically I have to stay with Timoris. Sometimes, even foreigners are more helpful than Nepalis. John and his sister Phulse not only let me eat and sleep with them but even assisted in washing my clothes. I don't want to blame Nepalis there, may be they have their own work and reasons, but still I can't help feeling bad sometimes.

October 24
I woke up at 5 in the morning as I had a flight at 7:30. After cleaning myself I ate the breakfast prepared by Phulse. She also gave me some cakes and a bottle of water. S.S.P. Karki assured me that he had his staff there and I would have little trouble. No troubles, but the flight was delayed for an hour, I was informed by an officer, Sivakoti. We got a chance to talk for an hour and he paid full attention.

At 9:30 A Twin Otter of Air North flew me towards Darwin. At 11:30, it landed on the Darwin airport. The immigration security was really tight and the checking took quite long. The medicines and the sacred soil from Lumbini that I carried with myself caused a lot of doubts. A Nepali interpreter was brought and to make sure, the trained dogs sniffed all around me. I had to argue persistenly to be allowed to take my khukuri with me. At last, after 2 and half-hours I was free, minus the soil from Lumbini.

From immigration I headed straight to inquire about flight to Sydney. The last flight was already boarded and I had to wait for the next flight tomorrow. I called Jaya Koirala, and after much trouble for 2 hours reached their residence. His wife Mariya was at the door with a welcoming smile. A successful Nepali engineer and a Swedish lady living their married life happily as Australian citizens!

..................Next Australia