I am again in Dark continent.Lesotho, the country of mountains in southern Africa where the highest low point in the world is found. It is also called the “mountain kingdom”. But people here don’t know where Nepal is, where Mount Everest is located. It is summer here in the Southern hemisphere. Lesotho is a tiny little country surrounded by the Republic of South Africa. Only two million people live here and the population is declining due to the HIV/Aids pandemic. It is estimated that one of every three people are infected with HIV.
It is hard to find men in the villages. Many men go to South Africa to work in the mines, returning occasionally to Lesotho to visit their wives and families, bringing with them the deadly virus. The ravages of HIV/Aids have left multitudes of orphan survivors to be raised by grand parents or in some cases, living completely alone and unsupervised. It is hard to find young people for farm work which, in combination with draught, has left many people starving in remote villages. It is no necessary to go far to find hungry people. They ask you anytime, anywhere for whatever is in your hand.
Basotho (the word for the people of Lesotho) seem to lack any sensitivity to temperature. It is around 32 degrees during the day and most people are wearing a blanket, woolen hat, or leather jacket. It is an odd sight for new visitors.
I went along with Elizabeth on a community outreach project funded by the NGO, PSI (Population Services International) to the remote mountain village of Menkhoaneng where the villagers came to a mobile clinic set up for HIV/Aids voluntary testing and counseling. While waiting for the pre testing educational session to begin, I was entertained by villagers with traditional singing and dancing. I took many photos and video of them. Some of the villagers took a liking to the Nepalese folk song playing on my MP3, Jhaymma Jhaymma and even attempted to sing some of the words. Most of the attendees were women, very few men seem to be interested in or willing to test for HIV.
Two PSI counselors sat in separate classrooms, available to anyone wishing to test. I was invited to witness one of the individual counseling and testing sessions. The test is very simple. A small prick is made in the finger and a drop of blood is placed on each of two test strips. While awaiting the result, which takes about 3 minutes, the client is asked a number of questions for data collection purposes. Everything is confidential and no names are recorded. Once the survey is complete, the counselor asks the client if he/she is ready to receive their result. Negative is indicated by only one line appearing on the test strips, two horizontal lines means positive. In the test that I sat in on, the result was thankfully negative and the client was counseled on the importance of remaining negative. On this day, a total of 30 villagers were tested and 6 tested positive for the HIV virus. At the end of the day, free condoms are distributed. I don’t know how many people actually use them.
On another day, Elizabeth took me to the her clinic at the government hospital where clients are treated on an outpatient basis for HIV/Aids and where ARV drugs (Anti Retro Virals) are distributed. There were many very sick people lying under trees and sleeping anywhere on the hospital grounds while waiting to be seen. I helped her process the clients who were having blood drawn on that day, recording their names. There were 22 people having blood drawn, all of whom had just tested positive for HIV and were having follow up lab work done.
At the end of our work at the clinic, I tested for HIV. Only one line showed up on the test strip. Negative.
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लेसोथो को प्रयोगशालामा गरियो एड्स परिक्षण

यो दैनिकीपनि उहि अँधेरो महादेश अफ्रीकाकै हो । लेसोथो भन्ने एउटा देश छ सानो । दक्षिण अफ्रीकाको बिच भागमा पर्ने । जम्मा २० लाख जनसंख्या भएको । एउटा हिमाली देश जहाँ संसारकै सबैभन्दा होचो अग्लो ठाउँ छ । लेसोथोलाई माउन्टेन किंगडम (हिमाली अधिराज्य) पनि भन्छन । हिमाली राज्य भएर के गर्नु ! त्यहाँका मान्छेलाई सगरमाथाबारे थाहै छैन । यूरोपतिर जाडो हुँदा दक्षिण अफ्रीकातिर गर्मी हुन्छ । म त्यहि गर्मीयामक बेला दक्षिण अफ्रीका पुगेको थिएँ । २० लाख जनसंख्यामा हरेक तिनमा एक जनालाई एड्स रोग लागेको छ । लेसोथोको गाउँमा पुरुषहरु भेट्टाउन निकै गाह्रो हो । किनकि लोग्ने मानिसहरु प्राय: खानीमा काम गर्न जान्छन दक्षिण अफ्रीकाको । उनीहरु वर्षमा एक पटक मात्रै आफ्ना श्रीमती र बालबच्चालाई भेट्न आउँछन । त्यहि भयानक भाइरसको कारण लेसोथोका ३३ प्रतिशत जनसंख्यामा एड्सको संक्रमण छ । यूवाहरु देख्नपनि निकै कठिन छ यहाँ । त्यहि रोगका कारणले यूवा अवस्थामै मर्छन । अनि केटाकेटीहरु बाजेबज्यैसँग हुर्किराखेका हुन्छन । यहाँ भोका मान्छे खोज्न कतै टाढा जानु पर्दैन । जतापनि हात र मुख जोडेर खान मागिरहेका मानिस भेटिन्छन ।
एकदिन म डा. एलिजावेथको क्लिनिकमा गएँ । उसको क्लिनिक एकदम दूर्गम गाउँ मेङ्खोआनेङमा छ । त्यहाँ पुग्नै पहाडको बाटो तिन घण्टा उकाली ओराली गर्नुपर्छ । त्यो क्लिनिक अमेरिकि पिसकोर्प अन्तर्गत सञ्चालित छ । त्यसले यहाँका मान्छेहरुको एचआइभि परिक्षण गर्ने र एड्सको उचार गर्ने गर्छ । हामी पुग्दा त गाउँका मानिसहरु अगाडिनै त्यो क्लिनिकमा आइसकेका रहेछन । तर उनीहरुको संख्या हामीले सोचेभन्दा थोरै थियो । लोग्ने मानिस त झन एक जनापनि थिएनन । एचआइभी परिक्षण गरेपछि सकारात्मक (पोजेटिभ) देखियो भने समाजले तिरष्कार गर्छ भनेर यहाँका मानिस परिक्षण गर्न आउँनै डराउँछन ।
रगत परिक्षण गर्नुपूर्व त्यहाँका मानिसले आफ्ना लोक भाका र न्रित्य देखाए हामीलाई । कति मिठो भाका, कति स्वाद लाग्ने गीत, कति सुन्दर नाच ! मनै छुने । म सोच्छु-तिनै मिठो गीत गाउने र नाच्ने सुन्दर तरुनी कालीहरुमध्ये कतिलाई एचआइभीले छोएको होला ? बिचरा ! कति निर्दोष र मिठाससँग हामीलाई स्वागत गरिरहेछन ।
मैलेपनि एउटा नेपाली गीत सुनाएँ-
तिमीले सुनेको कुरा हो,
मैले सुनेको कुरा हो
गाउँघरमा तिम्रो मेरो हल्ला चलेको कुरा हो
झ्याम्म ! झ्याम्म !!
ओहो ! उनीहरुले गीतको अर्थ नबुझेपनि झ्याम्म झ्याम्म क्या कण्ठै पारे । स्कूलको कोठामा रगत जाँच्ने काम शुरु भयो । मपनि परिक्षण कोठामा सहयोगिको रुपमा थिएँ । एक जना महिला आएर रगत दिइ । परिक्षण गर्ने तरिकापनि एकदम सजिलो रैछ । अलिकति रगत हातको औंलाबाट लियो अनि दुइटा परिक्षण गर्ने स्ट्रीपमा राख्यो । तिन मेनेटपछि त परिणाम निस्किहाल्ने । त्यसपछि रगत दिनेलाई सोधिन्छ ” के तपाई आफ्नो परिणाम थाह पाउन तयार हुनुहुन्छ ? ” रगतको परिणाम चाहिँ परिक्षण गर्ने स्ट्रीपमा एक लाइन मात्रै भयो भने नकारात्मक (नेगेटिभ) र दुई लाइन भयो भने सकारात्मक (पोजेटिभ) हुन्छ । दिनभरिमा त्यहाँ ४० जना महिलाहरुको रगत परिक्षण भयो ।
जसमध्ये १२ जनाको रगतमा दुई लाइन आयो । उनीहरुलाई एचआइभी एड्स लागेको भेटियो । अन्तिममा डा एलिजावेथले मेरोपनि रगत झिकेर स्ट्राईपमा राखिन् । तिन मिनेटमा मेरोपनि परिणाम आयो । उनले मलाईपनि त्यस्तै प्रश्न सोधिन ” के तपाई आफ्नो रगतको,परिणाम जान्न चाहनुहुन्छ ? ” मैले चाहन्छु भनें । तर मैले त पहिलेनै मेरो परिणाम देखिसकेको थिएँ । स्ट्राइपमा एक लाइन मात्रै थियो । अर्थात नकारात्मक (नेगेटिभ) । हिँड्ने बेलामा हामीले सबैलाई कण्डम बाँड्यौं । कतिले प्रयोग गर्लान । कतीले त केटाकेटीलाई खेलौना बनाउन देलान ।
तिमीले सुनेको कुरा हो,
मैले सुनेको कुरा हो,
गाउँ घरमा तिम्रो मेरो हल्ला चलेको कुरा हो
झ्याम्म झ्याम्म !!
त्यसपछि हामी ओरालो झर्यौं ।