Malaysia 2000

August 24
There is no ship from Miri to Kualalampur. It's still more than 90km for Kuching. Since it's summer holiday, it is really difficult to get the plane tickets too. There is a curfew from 11:00 to 2:00. It's so hot, I feel u can boil eggs in the head. At 3:00, I called the Miri Daily. A girl received at the other end. She just knew the name of Shahrukh Khan, an Indian. I am Shah, too. " Are you his relative", she asked. "I am definitely not". " Shahrukh is so handsome". "Well I am too, but not as much." She laughed. We planned to meet for an interview. At 5:00, I reached the Long Jetty, a long bridge made over sea.
At 7:00, I reached the hotel and checked emails. There was an email from the Wave. It said that the readers did have positive responses to my memoirs. My email address was being published to in The Sepember issue. Maybe now, I can leran more about my own country from many readers.
Today, I am feeling sad and alone. After spending so much time with the Nepalese Gurkhas, I feel terribly isolated here. Far away from home, making new compromises everyday, there is nobody that speaks my language, nobody I can share tears and laughter with. I am not exactly unsatisfied, but how my mother must be worrying for me….. I write to her telling her not to worry, but….. It was already 11:00, but sleepy I am not. I changed again and went outside to the Sunflower Disco near the hotel. I am not here loaded with cash to have a blast. I just want to study different types of environment. I first introduced myself in the counter first. A person got curious about me even bought me a beer. Here, it's a different scene in the Disco. The girls sing and invite the boys to dance. Unlike the Discos I have been to, you can't just go ahead and dance. A girl came, as if on a cue and pulled me for the dance. It's the Malaysian music, I can't jump and fly around. The boys and girls just look at each other's faces and shake gently. Being a thorough Nepali soul, I itched to do a Jhyaure, shaking the "kammar' and the 'kum'. The girls had thought me a Malaysian first. Seeing my different dance, they kept on coming and pulling me over for a dance. I begged exhaustion and bought a beer. As I was about to leave at 12:30, three girls followed me. I walked silently. At a hotel nearby, the receptionist called one of the girl. Others waited outside. Curious I waited too. a car came and stooped in front of us. A man said something to me in Malaysian. Maybe he thought I was a pimp. The girl inside the hotel called the other two. Maybe the bargaining was complete. They went inside. The man in the car stared at me, maybe he was asking me to come with him, I had no idea. I started walking in the opposite direction. The car passed too.

25 August
At 8:30, I went to see the second world Memorial, just relying on the maps. I didn't meet anybody on the way to ask for directions. Even after walking for one and half-hour I was not sure if I had found the place or not. The signboard spot English scripts but Malaysian language. At last, with the help of one person , I found the destination. There were many graves for Malaysian, Indians, Japanese who had died in the Second World War. Finally I found the memorial, put flowers and took some photographs. I returned to the hotel at around 1:00, bathing in sweat. I had a meal and slept till 4:00.

26 August
At 9:00 I went post office to parcel some gifts. Some gifts are such that their postal cost is more than their value. Hard to handle. In the hotel, Lulu Chong was waiting for me. She gave me a piece of paper to write my recollections on Miri. She knew that I was leaving for Kualalampur and wanted to talk and take some picture with me. She was the owner of the Tropical inn and for 3 days we had shared only smiles and the looks. I didn't have much time as I had to get to airport by 1 and it was already 12:00. She promised me to drop in the car. When she knew that my travel was not sponsored, she was really concerned. I had already paid the bills, she was insistent that it was returned. At the airport, she asked for Nepalese coins. Coin collection was her hobby. After saying goodbye, I realized that I had forgotten my helmet. Taking a taxi to fetch it and buying a new one would cost the same. I was in a dilemma. I was just about to call Jennifer when Lulu and Jennifer arrived with my helmet. I was touched.
The plane took off. A Muslim looking fellow was my neighbor who pretended to sleep. I didn't care. At 5:45, the plane landed, but I had to wait till 7:00 for the cycle to arrive. Arranging my stuffs, I realized that I had forgotten the glasses, the momento of a friend. Maybe Lulu will bring it to me…

August 28
I had spent a night in a Chinese temple. AT 4:00 AM people started moving and making noise, as the restaurant near the temple opened early. I woke up reluctantly at six and it started pouring at 7:00. AT 8:30, the rain stopped and the fat guy who had been my guide yesterday, arrived. He called Ganesh Rana at Rawang to tell him that I was coming. Rawang is like a Nepalese village. Ganesh rana was waiting for me there, when I arrived. There was a football match between veteran Gurkhas and Indians that evening. I went there with Ganesh dai. Gorkha Samaj, rawang had organized a welcome program for me that evening at 9:30. After the second world war, many Nepalese have settled abroad, some willingly and some willingly. Rawang is one such place where around 500 Nepalese live. They have been living there for generations now and the latest generation can't even talk in pure Nepali. However they are Nepalese at heart, our brothers who have preserved our culture and traditions, no matter at what part of the world they are in.

August 29
I left for Kualalampur at 12:30, and reached the Batu Cave at around 3:00. On the way I had taken rest in a beautiful Commonwealth Park. Batu Cave is a famous tourist site and has 3 caves, 2 small and one very large. You can get inside after paying 2 Ringget. There are 17 stairs of 16 steps to enter te big cave and it's exhausting. At the head of the stairs there is a staue of Mr. K. Thambusamy. There are statues of different characters of the Ramayana in all three caves. Everything is however, written in Tamil script. The cave is awesome, you fill like entering a vast well, the wall of the caves seems almost like frozen liquid.
At 5:00, I returned from the cave and managed to talk the priest into letting me stay in the Laxmi Narayan temple. At 11:00, the Indian priest cooked the meal for the two of us. The priest didn't eat anything from outside. In the kitchen , the unwashed dishes had piled up from weeks. I helped to wash them. The Kitchen and bedroom were really messy. Maybe the priest was too busy or may be pure lazy. Thankfully, the guestroom was spick and span. Late at night, 'panditji' got a call, somebody had kicked the bucket, panditji started digging in the almanac.

August 30
The panditji had already left to perform Shraddha. He seemed to be really busy and well known to all the people in Kualalampur. Many visitors brought him food and that explained the lot of dishes and uneaten food everywhere. There was a whole market of dhoti and kurta at one corner. Fruits have rotten at another. Maybe I should stay here and serve panditji and eat all the goodies rather than cycling in hunger!
At 1;50, I went to see the Tower of kualalampur, the second tallest tower in Asia. It's height is 421m.You just have to pay 8 riggnet to get a lift and see the panoramic view of Kualalampur in 50 seconds. There was a crowd gathered at a shop. They were buying souvenirs. I aslo bought a pin to adorn my hat. After knowing who I am, the shopkeeper Lee didn't take the money for the pin.
There are paintings of 17 tallest towers of the world in glass. I went down and juggled the coin in the vending machine for a drink. The machine didn't work, my 2 Riggnet was lost. Then I went to seethe tallest building in the world, the Twins Tower. They are really like twins and so enormous that they can't be snapped in a single photo. Due to the inconvenience of parking, I couldn't study the tower from inside. Zebra crossings are also not very systematic here. The place can be called as a meeting point of the Malaysian, Chinese and Indian. There are many Hindus, North Indians, but Tamils outnumber everybody. Many South Indians with white Tikka on the forehead can be seen roaming around everywhere.
When I reached my guest room, the food was already prepared. I had my own set of chore. Panditji sat on a table and started crooning, "sham teri bansi baje re …..". I added music, banging plates, bowls, spoons….

August 31
On 31st August 1957, Malaysia gained Independence. Hence this day is celebrated as The National Day. The whole ambience is set up for celebration, like holi celebration in Nepal. However, there is a vast difference. The feeling of nationality and patriotism prevails in each and every individual. There are national flags everywhere, in the terraces, in bikes everywhere. People are genuinely attached to the feeling of national unity. Back in home,moved by patriotism, once we also tried to establish the "Rashtriya Hit Samrachhyan Manch", but….
Today amidst all the big Malaysian flags, one small Nepali flag also danced in the wind. I can never forget the look of ecstasy that it brought in the eyes of many Nepalese celebrating the holiday in the Merdeka square.

September 1
I went to the Singapoore embassy today. It was one hectic job to meet the director. Nobody understands English. Nobody understands what Mayor office is, it's called D.B.K.L. I asked the receptionist for International affair division and she sent me to god knows where. Finally I was able to meet the assistant director and I spent around an hour with him talking and taking picture. He gave me a book on Malaysia as a farewell gift.
One can spot many burrowed words in the Malaysian language. The influence of English and Hindi are predominant, for example Teksi for taxi, teh for tea etc. Some words sound like Nepali too, such as Peredan Menteri for Pradhan Mantri. There are posters of Indian movies everywhere. It almost feel like being in a crowded street of rural India. Today is the Ganesh janmaastami, the birth anniversary of Ganesha. The temples are understandably very crowded, the chants can be heard from far away. It is almost 10:30, when the worshippers left the temple. There was no time to cook anything, The panditji and I ate the leftover laddus of the great Ganesha and tucked in.

September 3
I am really disappointed in the Malaysian media persons. They neither sound enthusiastic nor keep appointments. Malaysia has the tallest buildings in the world and we have the tallest mountain. I was quite excited to share my experiences and strengthen the friendship of the two countries that can boast of some tallest things. That seemed to be a tall order indeed.

September 4
I met a student, Giriraj Sharma in the central market today. There were two of his friends with him, dinesh Bista and Bishnu Pandey. They knew about my arrival from Chakra Pandey, who was working in Malaysia. We went to Bukit Tingi after 42 km bus ride and 1 hr. walk to te north of Kualalampur. In the midst of high hills, the way was covered with forests. Big buildings also appeared in the cleared forest area from time to time. After 10-min. walk inwards, we came across a small village full of small tin-roof cottages. We had to cross that village. The journey started in a small lane in the midst of the forest. Myriad of mosquitoes came to welcome us. The path was confusing but Giriji knew where we were heading. I had heard that the immigrant workers in Malaysia without visa were left in this forest. Good idea, the mosquitoes are the worst tormentors of the world.
After 1-hour walk in the wilderness, finally we turned up in a piece of cultivated land. "Birkhe Danda" was nearby. Like the name suggested, it was a pucca Nepali village, with Nepalese working in farming lands. I felt nostalgic thinking about my own villages. Maybe some of my friends are there collecting wood and fodder there. I couldn't resist a calling whistle. There was a back whistle from inside the forest and a crowd of Kales, Harkes, Birkhes emerged. Adorned with a cowboy hat and knee-length boots, some even carried khukuris. An awesome sight, reminding one of ancient hunters. We got introduced, shared bitter sweet experiences. There were many stories of deforestation and newly cultivated lands. The benefit was shared equally by the landowners and the workers. "The fields are wet with Nepalese sweat", ram Singh remarked emotionally. These sweat could have gone to Nepal's land too, he mused. Out of the blue I asked how much did he expect to earn in say 5 years. 10 to lakhs, if he worked hard. What were his plans, if he returned to Nepal? To own a house in Kathmandu and start a small business. I am disappointed in his answer. Why Kathmandu only? The person who knew the value of sweat and toil, couldn't he have used it elsewhere in Nepal? But my heart goes out for these Nepalese, who are working hard in the midst of this alien forest, hands and feet coarse with labor, fighting hard with the bloodthirsty mosquitoes.

September 5
A devotee I met in the temple, Rajkumar promised to introduce me to somebody from the newspaper Nanban. The newspaper had just taken an interview of an Indian cyclist out on world tour. He was reluctant to say no to his friend however and took my interview. I was assured that it would be published after few days. Lets see, hoe much concerned is the Nanban to me.

September 6
I went to meet The Nepalese consultant S.C. Vadiveloo. He was waiting for me there. In the course of the talk he mentioned that, few months ago he had met with 5 world travellers from Nepal. I was really surprised to tthat it was the team led by Laxman Sapkota. I had read back in Beijing that they had started the tour in April. Their speed was really impressive. Furthermore, Laxman Sapkota had already traveled in 29 countries in 1986-1996. I had also read that his fellow traveler was killed in India. Laxman had said that they had already separated by the time he was killed. Others had separated too and he had returned alone.
Laxman was following, the same route he had taken before. I wondered why. According to the information provided by consulate, they were probably in some parts of Australia now. Any ways, Laxman deserves applause for his courage. Where most people can not think of taking a world tour, he has gone ahead and done it-twice.

September 7-12
I got a job for one week starting from today. In a slaughter house of Shahalam. I have to lift the slaughtered boars and put them in a truck. Here around 3000 boars die in a day. There are many Nepalese working here. They slaughter the animals, cut them in small pieces, weigh and load them in a truck. I earn on the basis of the boars I help to load. The harder I work, the more I earn. It is the place where Nepalese earn big bucks in a short time. One works here from 7;00 in the morning till 9:00 at night. The need and greed of money overcomes the need of rest. I hope to be in a good shape after a continuous work for 1 whole week. This will pay for my journeys ahead.

September 13
I still felt tired from the hard work of last week. The shoulders felt heavy. At 9:00, I had lunch with Sunil and Raju. They also changed the tires and tube of my bicycle, which was a much needed help. The shopkeepers also gave some essential things in free. Raju proved to be a great help, not only had he collected some money from his friends for me but suggested me to call him whenever I was in a trouble. I was touched.
It was already 11:00 A.M. and the sun felt scorching hot. In Malaysia the weather remains more or less same throughout the year. I couldn't find any shops in the highway. I just roamed around the Multimedia university near Cyberjaya for an hour or so. I got lost in the Oil Palm jungle. At last I reached the Kawasan Kampung at 3:30 P.M. I had a meal there. It's not a very populated area, there are forests everywhere with some houses set wide apart. I walked to the west instead of south where I was supposed to go. After a tiring walk of some 8km, finally I reached the airport and headed towards Sepang. There was no hotel there. Luckily I met Safik Rehman, a Bengali who worked there and who agreed to let me stay in his room. I followed the light of his motorbike through the jungle and finally reached his place. He lived in a small settlement where many Indian and Bengali laborers resided.

September 14
Rehman was already up by 6:00 A.M. and reading 'namaj' when I woke up. He prepared tea and fried some rice left from the last evening, saying that it's not good to go out in the morning with empty stomach. The morning was cold, leaves shone with the fresh dew and it was not fully bright yet. Few people had risen. I left with Rehman following in his bike. Malaysia is also famous for Oil Palm plantation and here they are planted everywhere. Oil is extracted from their seeds. The road is narrow and cars, trucks are already queued up. I feel like shouting at them. "What's the hurry, anyway?" The trucks are causing much noise.
At 9:00 I reached the Port Dickson and at 12:00 Pengralam Kempas, where I had my meal. Everybody thinks I am a Malaysian and is surprised to find that I am not. The scorching sun of Malaysia already has an effect on my skin, I resemble the black Tamils. As I was having meal two persons got out of a car, inspected my bicycle and asked for my introduction. "Are you a Hindu or a Muslim?" Yunus and Harun, they were Muslims. I don't know why Muslims always ask about religion, that too whether one is a Hindu or a Muslim, as if there are no other religions in the world. I feel I don't belong to any religion at all, humanity is my only religion. For a while we talked about religion. The little discussion ended with them paying my bills. Thanking them I went on my way.

September 15
After many days I ate at Mac Donalds. I walked through the small villages from Malaka to Batu Pahat. The streets are little wider here. I took the familiar route to Johor Baru. In the southwestern part, there were small hills. Travelling uphill and downhill was like swinging back and froth. Here, the street, market place, river and the city share the same name. There are many snakes, frogs, dogs, hens and other small animals lying crushed on the street. Maybe they didn't know how to cross the street. Trucks zoomed away throwing huge spurts of smoke and hot air. It was not very pleasant at all. I reached Rengit at 7:30. I went to a police station to ask for a place to stay. Again there were questions about religion. At last however, I had the permission to fix my tent inside their ground. I went out to have some snacks. When I came back, the policeman called me. He was talking to two men who had possibly rubbed him the wrong way. He introduced me to those men and asked them to help me out by giving 100 ringgits. They complied and went away. The duty officer took the money from me and sent a constable to change it. He distributed the change with a cunning intelligence, 10 ringgits for the constable, 40 for me and 50 for himself. Pretty smart. We all benefited from my name and…his shrewdness.

September 16
There was another duty on office today. I took leave from him at 8:15 and cycled slowly to Johor baru. Without thinking I crossed the immigration. Actually I had planned to go to Singapore only tomorrow and had to go to Rajendra's place at Pasir Gudang today. It was 41km from where I was. Luckily I met Marko, the postman who agreed to drop me in his car.