South Korea, 2000

Seoul - Ichon April 7
I had plans to go to Inchon today, so woke up early. We cannot talk among ourselves because of the language problem. The Filipino guy does not have an arm, cleans the room with one hand. Sometimes he smiles. He prepares food too. I try to help him whenever I have time. The Pakistani is very lazy. The Filipino makes coffee for himself and me. The church has been very helpful to the foreign workers. Most foreigners are found to change their religions once they come here. I feel the religion is the one exchanged for hunger and shelter. How strong can the belief be? How much can your soul accept? Every Sunday the worshipers are seen praying for Jesus Christ. I myself took part in few of those prayers. But I don't believe in religion, neither do I hate it. That night when I had to spend my days in a jungle in China, I called out for god a lot. God is an easy word to call out for.

I reached Inchon at 2 and tried to telephone Robin, but the number was invalid. I had no choice but to lodge in a hotel. I tried to contact Lion's Club from the hotel but could not. Sitting there in my hotel room, I started thinking as to what to do next. I did not come here for any specific reason. I wanted to see the beach here. In the evening, I went to a regular restaurant in a galli near the hotel. It was a crowded place - people were drinking and making noise. The food was not that great, but in a new place among strangers, I had dinner in a new environment.

April 8
I woke up late as I was staying here today. There was no way I could contact anyone. I took my bicycle and went out at around 10, hoping that I just might meet someone. I roamed around the beach area till 2 in the afternoon. There were clouds in the sky, mild wind blowing - it was a cool weather throughout the day. I came back at around 3 and went to the last night's restaurant to have lunch. The place was empty. I had pork and rice. I can use the sticks with ease these days; do not feel a bit of discomfort. There was nobody else in the restaurant, so the lady owner sat in front of me and began talking. I could not understand a word, but kept on shaking my head. I came back and lied down in the room till 6 in the evening. I didn't have anything else to do, have no books to read. At night, I went to the same restaurant again to have dinner. The place was again crowded. I greeted a Korean man and sat besides him, called the restaurateur and pointing towards the Korean's glass asked for whatever he was having. With something that looked like pickle and some pieces of radish, she served me the alcohol. The radish tasted sweet and sour, almost like gundruk. I took a ship from the glass, and looking at the expression in my face, the Korean said something I could not understand. I ordered the same pork and rice for food.

9 April
I started off at 7 and reached Seoul at 11. The weather bit cold, with sky all covered with clouds; didn't feel like going anywhere. I stayed in the room till 10 at night, after which went to attend a (felicitation program) reception organized by Dharan Korea Supporting Team. About 20 to 30 Dharani people gathered coming from their works after 9. Women began cooking, got introduced to men. I am grateful to Dharan Korea Supporting Team for the felicitation program. I am especially thankful to Ganga Raj Rai, with whom if I had not met, I would be roaming in Beijing till now. I'm also thankful to Dambar Subba, Ram Hari Gurung and Abhaya Shrestha. The night started with light snacks and drinks, but after a few rounds the voices started growing louder. The hall was booked only till 1, so we had to leave. They handed me 200,000 won as financial support, that was collected from the members of the team.

10 April
Abhaya and I had dog meet again today. Apparently dog meet is taken for its medicinal values in Korea. Mostly people who have been hospitalized for a long period and sportsmen consume it from time to time. One cannot afford to have it every day as it is very expensive. You don't see a dog in the streets. I remember my Kathmandu. People here usually like to go to the rural areas for dog meat. They cook it very tastily in those areas. And people treat these occasions as picnics. I had a dog, named Jacky. He liked me a lot. To show his courage, he used to bring home monkeys, mice or snakes every now and then. One day when I was not home, he committed suicide by eating poison. He was loved by all in the village, there were 32 children in his malami (funeral procession). I skipped a meal when I heard of his death. While chewing on the dog meat today, I remembered my Jacky.

After the meal we went to a cycle shop. Abhaya bought me a head-light for my cycle.

11 April
Green Gallery organized a press conference at 4. Many important people were also present in the conference, which was about me and Chandra Gurung, who was jailed for 6 years for no reasons, and has just been released. It was organized with active initiation of Sung Kak. The conference demanded compensation from the government for Chandra Gurung and requested support for me from individuals and institutions. The captain of Green Gallery handed me with 200000 won collected from the people attending the conference. Apparently, the only daughter of the captain had died in a fire and she had started the gallery in her name. After the program, at around 7, I had food with the officials of the gallery. At 9, I left my cycle there and headed towards Tongdemun. I met Ram Hari Gurung, the president of Nepali contact committee (Nepali Samparka Samiti), at 10. We went to Dambarji's place for my sleeping arrangements. Korean women are not very happy to see guests in their homes. Dambarji's wife too started feeling her belly. I came out of that place and went with a Gurung from Pokhara. He too had his girlfriend coming in at 12. With difficulty I persuaded him to not call his for the night, and got shelter for the night.

12 April
I walked out of Tongdemun at 7, on my way bought several newspapers; the news about last night's press conference was printed in several of them. I reached Green Gallery exactly at 9. I took my stuff and headed towards the airport. Choi and the captain didn't turn up even after waiting for half an hour. I reached the airport in one hour and 40 minutes. There are two terminals in Kimpo International Airport, two Air China flights a day. I checked in and called several places to say good-bye. China Air didn't ask for the cycle to be put in a box, they didn't even let out the air in the tire tubes. I thanked them for that. No one of my acquaintances could come to the airport because of their work. Sul Hae had said she would come anyhow but she too didn't turn up. I was anticipating till 1:20. The plane took off at 2. At 3:30 landed in Beijing. It was only 2:30 in Beijing. It was warmer compared to Seoul. I had two can beers during the flight, which added to the heat. I went to the Nepalese embassy in San Litu. Nepali New Year holidays falls on 12th and 13rd this month. Mr. Ambassador also was in Nepal. There were only two staff in the office. I contacted other staff and arranged the guesthouse for my lodging. Nepalese students had organized New Year party at Medical College, went there with embassy staff, exchanged greetings with many Nepalese friends.

13 April
I could not get up early today. At 9, Manoj brought in tea for me. He told me I cannot stay in the guesthouse without the Ambassador's permission. The consular also said I can't. According to them, that was the Ambassador's private guest room. I fail to understand how can a government property be a private facility. How can they not allow a cyclist carrying a national flag to use a guestroom in an embassy? I made several attempts to call Kathmandu but could not. Ram Prashad Sharma had invited me to dinner, but it was a fasting day for himself. I had dinner with his daughters - delicious Nepali food on the first night of Nepali New Year. But I was worried about the place to stay for the night, I tried several places but failed. At 9:30 at night, called Suraj (in Kathmandu) and told him about my situation. When I returned at 10:30 the, guest house was locked, my bicycle outside. For about 30 minutes, I sat there and thought. I didn't know what to do. In a corner behind the embassy, I laid my mattress and slept there. I feel like crying in such conditions. One cyclist - an ambassador spreading the world of peace and promoting its country - cannot sleep in a guest room of an appointed ambassador. I condemn those who consume national treasure and refuse to recognize its flag. Tonight I feel like a man sleeping on the porch, locked out from his house. My heart aches. Where can I go at this moment to protest? I hide in the shadow quietly.

14 April
In the morning, no one came to know how I spent the night. Only sky was watching. The consular - Mr. M.B. Bista, had called the staff early in the morning to ask if I had stayed there or left. I lied to the staff, I boasted about staying in a hotel. I came to know that the ambassador Rajeshor Acharya is not going to be back before a week. I thought of faxing these events to a newspaper back home. But instead, I called Mr. Daman Dhungana first, who told me that he would inform the ambassador. I saw some rays of hope. The foreigners can't stay in hotels below two stars in Beijing. Where do I get 400 yuan to stay for a night in those hotels? I set out in the world, leaving behind the comfort of my heydays, prepared to face hunger, thirst and sleepless nights - all for the country. And some people, instead of providing some inspiration, tend to discourage you. At 1:30 a fax came from Kathmandu instructing to arrange for my stay. The arrangement was not in the guesthouse, but in a storeroom near the garage. The store was filled with old households and office equipment, like in a ministry back home - ready to be auctioned. To stay in a place like that too, I had to pre-inform the number of days I intended to stay. God, what a country I was born in.

22 April
I headed towards Great Wall at 7. Everyone knows that Great Wall is in China. But many Chinese don't know when you say Great Wall. So, it becomes a problem many times. It is there in their one Yen note, so I show that and ask people in the street. That too they don't understand easily. Pass the city area, you can see the farming lands as you approach the country side. I passed through Tucheng, Xueyuan, Champing and Nankou. At Dong Younzi, farmers were working in their fields. I rested there for a while. From there, the road took a uphill climb. After Ju Yong Psss, the figure of the Great Wall became visible. On the necked mountain the wall lies like a snake. It's 14 km from there to Babaling, the climb becomes steeper. Soaked with sweat, I reached the Babaling base of the wall at 4. It's 69 km from Beijing to Bababling. The entrance to the wall was already closed for the day. Most people had left, but a few could be seen returning. One of the seven wonders of the world, man made structure that can be seen from the moon - the Great Wall. At the base of the mountain is a small market place - the Wall climbs up towards East and West from there. My curiosity and the desire to set foot on the Wall could not be fulfilled today. In the market place, I found a Tourist Guest House, and lodged myself for the night in one of the rooms.